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Unachirashi sushi (Jan.2014 issue No.121)
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Raw autumn salmon skinfiring sashimi (Oct.2013 issue No.118)
The toro usutsukurisashimi of the Greater amberjack (Sep.2013 issue No.117)
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Nov. 2017 issue No.167

One side of Italian fish dishes


24 hours to the City of Water to Venice

November to send the annual "overseas fish circumstances" came this year.

To know what kind of way a fish is being eaten in each country of abroad, I go abroad around the second half of October every year and visit a part of the actual situation, and I do that every year FISH FOOD TIIMES I wrote a special feature in the November issue of the year, but this year I made the visiting country to Italy.

Italy has about 80% of the country's land area, the population is 55% of Japan, and the GDP is around 8th in the world. Being facing the Mediterranean Sea, surrounded by the Adriatic Sea in the east and the Ligurian Sea in the west, there are many coastlines facing the sea, so in Europe it is a country that eats fish comparatively well I visited with knowledge.

As a first day 's journey, I first decided to visit' Sea City in the Sea Venice '. The reason is that Venice had guessed that it must definitely eat fish by its unique geographical position.

For the visit to Venezia on the first day, I left Fukuoka Airport at 10 am in Finnair and flew to Helsinki, Finland, which is a European hub airport. Then I changed to the same Finnair in Helsinki and flew to Rome, this time I changed to Alitalia Airlines and went straight from Rome to Venice.

ヘルシンキ Helsinki Airport

On the time schedule, we will leave Fukuoka Airport at 10 o'clock morning on October 22 and arrive at Helsinki at 14:25 in the afternoon, so it is supposed to be only 4 hours and 25 minutes. Actually, however, it takes about 10 hours and 30 minutes because the time difference is 6 hours, and it took 3 hours and a half of the flight from Helsinki to Rome. And on the third flight this time, from Rome to Venezia for 1 hour, we arrived at the hotel in Venezia around 22:00 PM at 11:30 pm. Including the transfer waiting time after leaving home, I kept moving for almost 24 hours.

I took a bus from Venice airport at the end of the air route and moved to the Roman plaza which is the final place where car transportation means can be used on the ground. From there I got on the only vehicle in Venice city, which was a water bus. Although I got off at the berth near the hotel I was taught, I did not know the entrance to the hotel which was said to be nearby as soon as I walked around, and after a while I went around a narrow dirty narrow alley, and asked some people how to get to the hotel I found the entrance and it was the end of the really hard first day itinerary.


Venice

The city of Venice has evacuated to this wetland protected by a long distance tideland as in the map above, because the residents of Northern Italy escape from the Germanic invasion of Italy by the 5th century. The intruder could not follow pursued because of the bad wetlands, people who evacuated began to live here, the history of Venice began at that time.

In order to build a building, it is said that forests can be made if Venezia is reversed, because a large number of log piles are driven into the tideland and used as the foundation of the building. On the ground with a building made of stone is narrowly curved like a maze so you can not enter a car, and many bridges are also exclusively for pedestrians, tourists also use either boat or ship. For many centuries, it was a rowing gondola that used to be the means of transportation in the city, but now there are water buses with an engine and water taxi, and the gondola is dedicated to sightseeing.

venezia   venezia

venezia   venezia

In Venice, which has become a landscape of the rare world in this way, one of the places I wanted was a fish market. But the next day we arrived was Monday, so the fish market was a holiday and the fish market around 10 o'clock heard that it was the busiest time was empty like the image below.

venezia   venezia

Fish Market Building

So, on this day I got time to depart for the Venezia half day sightseeing tour that I applied for a tourist called Myu, so I planned to take a light lunch and entered a seemingly ordinary cafe in St. Mark's square.

But as I entered, it was a very nice built shop, and in fact it was a very famous luxury cafe in the city of Venice, which made it rather lightly rather heavily paid.

venezia   venezia

The name of the cafe is "Cafe Florian". It was a famous long-established store opened 300 years ago in 1720, and it is known for long time since the world celebrities visit one after another. British authors Charles Dickens who wrote "A Tale of Two Cities" and a French author Marcel Proust known for "In Search of Lost Time", a café that was frequently relaxed here But it is famous.

As in the image on the left, the emotional majestic and spectacular interior is full of atmosphere. Although there is a cafe, it can be said that the price of the cafe is very high, because the sandwiches in the image on the upper right are 17.5 €, the raw ham salad is 21 €, and the beer is 13 cup each. However, I decided to think that it would not be high if I thought that I had a moment in the seat where Dickens and Proust sat while sitting in my lifetime memories.

Well, as it is said, Shakespeare that wrote that "merchant of Venice" has never visited Venezia, so just in case ...

In the afternoon's half day sightseeing, I enjoyed the gondola on the canal, visited the St. Mark's Basilica and the Doge's Palace, and spent a half day sightseeing tour of Venice. After that it became dinner time and decided to taste the fish dish for the first time in the restaurant near the biggest bridge of Venezia called Rialto bridge made of marble.

As shown in the image below, in front of a shop called Ristorante terrazza sommariva, fresh fish are arranged like naked sellers of fishmakers, and indeed it was appealing that "fish dishes are our selling" . Moreover, luckily, one table facing the canal was empty, so I sat on a seat that seems to be its best place.

As a matter of fact, because it is too close to the canal, a little bit of sea water smells of a ditch drifted and later found out that it is not necessarily the best place, but that is not something to worry about, it is that I decided to think fragrance of the beach.

venezia

The staff who took charge of us was a vigorous service spirit who bumped all the Japanese he remembered, make us laugh a lot and make it entertain. Finally, when asking for a check, bring a receipt and show it to me, he said with a smile" kokolozuke, haitenai! ... ", so I handed" kokolozuke "in Italy where there is no custom of chips. Then he repeatedly glanced "Grazie" many times.

The food I requested is the following image.

      spag.seppie nere      insalata astice

Spaghetti with squid ink (Spaghetti seppie nere) 17€、Lobster Salad (Insalata astice) 24€

Spaghetti with squid ink's ink is rather fishy and rich, it is rich, the squid which is the material of the squid ink is not an elegant oval squid system familiar in Okinawa, but it is presumed to be a cuttlefishes system.

The lobster salad was a boyfriend who put it on top of the vegetables between the head and the tailbill and was not using the husk of bellows well.

When eating a salad in Italy, it is normal that no dressing or anything is applied. You will eat olive oil or balsamic vinegar on your own salad and then add salt and pepper as needed to prepare your own taste before eating. I thought it was troublesome at the beginning, but after a few days this was no longer a pain.

After comparing the cuisine many times in Italy, this shop is not not only a familiar rip-off shop that specializes in tourism partners, etc., but also a good price and good taste, relatively high level It was a shop.

The real day was staying in Italy on the first day, fish dishes were highly satisfied, and we went back to the hotel while expanding expectations on what kind of fish dishes we could still enjoy.


The schedule of this day was supposed to go to Florence with the Italian high-speed railroad tritonitalia past 10 o'clock. So early in the morning we went to the fish market at 7 pm and decided to see the Adriatic sea fish lining the market.

In the building of the fish market which was empty the day before, an iron stand was placed, a thin ice was laid, the raw fish were arranged quickly and the preparation of the sales floor was in progress and it was still time to open It was the stage that needed.

venezia

Not only in the building in the colonnade but also in the permanent fish store in the surroundings, an iron stand was issued, and preparation was made for selling fish one after another in the future. The situation is as follows.

Venice fish market
  mackerel,  goatfish, red sole European rock crab(Dungeness crab )、scallop 、Goldlined seabream salmon 、Goldlined seabream、Hairy stingfish
Black plaice、peeled angler、oriental river prawn Unknown except the salmon of Cutting in cylinders on the left swordfish Cutting in cylinders、yellow fin tuna Cutting in cylinders
Black plaice、Hairy stingfish、octopus

he use lettuce like cypress leaves in Japan

Three-dimensional display of corners
The swordfish's nose is displayed without cutting The clams are contained in the net just like Japan Shop front of covered fish shop located outside the fish market
Shop front display status of a fish store with a roof Before the fish store with a fine aquarium, the Styrofoam fish box invented by the Japanese people was stacked like a mountain, which was familiar landscape in Japan. Maybe this is the same cod dried as in Japan

 

The peak of this fish market is about 10 o'clock, so it may be 3 hours earlier and the real figure may not be such a thing, but because there is time constraint, we had no choice but to give up on this level.

In a word, what kind of feeling is the Venetian fish as a whole is that it is a "northern fish". In the fish market there was a Black plaice caught in Hokkaido, and considering the fact that many famous dungeness clubs were lined up in San Francisco and elsewhere, these are just representatives of the northern fish.

For example that is easy to understand, I will return home on the morning of October 29th. And the Abashiri of a cold colony planned to visit on November 1st is at the north latitude of 44 degrees and Venice is a little north latitude 45 degrees north.

Well then Venezia was cold like Abashiri. In the morning and evening, even if it got below 15 degrees Celsius, it rarely got lower than 20 degrees Celsius during the day, and I could spend a really comfortable temperature that does not require a sweater. This seems to be due to the temperate climate of "Mediterranean climate", which is not very cold in the winter season but high in the temperate period when the plant grows, with a little rain and strong adaptation to dryness.


From the east Adriatic Sea to the west Ligurian Sea

On the third day in Italy, I took a high-speed train called Trenitania at 10:25, left Venice and headed to Florence.

   

Venice Santa Lucia Station

I headed to Florence, not the purpose of Florence, I rented a car at Florence, went to Pisa facing the Ligurian Sea, inspected the fish in the Ligurian Sea and inspected the suburban supermarket on the way back and forth between Pisa and Florence , Plus a plan to sightseeing the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

However, on this day, unexpected accounting differences came out one by one due to rental car movements, and we had no choice but to change plans variously.

The first difference was that I went to Hertz before 13 o'clock as planned, but I could not easily borrow it because the borrowing vehicle is preparing for cleaning, and the vehicle that came out is a lot of scratched appearance It took time to confirm and agree, furthermore the departure was delayed by more than 1 hour in Navi setting and others.

The second difference in the calculation is that one hour half way trip to Pisa is almost all the exclusive roads for cars and no suburban shops were found on the way and we did not meet the supermarket I was imagining.

The third difference in calculation is "roughness of driving manners in Italy". The most surprising thing is "no turn signal is used by anyone except when turning right or turning at an intersection." On the expressway, I was surprised with all the cars moving freely to the right without turning on a turn signal. I was inexperienced with the traffic on the right side of the car and was using a lot of mind, so I was forced to become weak on the character of rent-a-car if I pushed them one after another or interrupted one after another.

The fourth difference in calculation is that in the morning of the second day the right front tire abnormality warning light stays on and it is judged that it will not know what will happen in the future and convey the complaint and do not fill the gasoline I returned the car with leaving time early.

I stayed in Tuscany region including Florence and Pisa for almost one day until departure for Rome the next day, but in the end I did not see fish in the Ligurian Sea and I did not see suburban supermarkets. But the only harvest was that we could climb the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

I think that the inclination of Pisa leaning tower is not well understood in the upper left image. However, in the right image taken from the position considered to be most inclined when turning to the back, I think that you can understand the large inclination of the leaning tower. To see if both images are shooting in a decent horizontal position, you can see that you are shooting with keeping the horizon if you look at the angle of the roof of the building at the bottom of the left corner.


Rome feel the old history and the weight of the stone

Departing Maria Novella Station of Florence around 13 o'clock on the 25th, we took the high-speed train Trenitania and got to Rome · Termini station in about an hour and a half.

On the next day all day, I booked a Japanese guide tour sponsored by a tourist company named Myu, so I decided to enjoy dinner fish dishes at the restaurant near the hotel from early hours without impossible.

I entered Ristorante Cotto just behind Hotel Boscolo Exedra Rome I stayed at. When I saw the menu, I found Menu dello Chef (chef's recommended menu) which used plenty of fish dishes, so I decided to order it.

          Tentacoli di Polpo* lardellato in crema di piselli e menta            Larded Ocropus in creamy mashed peas and mint

The author decided to eat octopus for the first time overseas, but it was unexpectedly delicious. I thought how to make a cream of mashed peas to mint flavored fried octopus is really interesting how it is born.

 

          Ravioloni di Cernia* eon ragu di gamberi al sentore di agrumi           Grouper fish Rabioli on Shrimps ragout with orange flavour

There was explanation that Rabioli contained ground beef of Grouper fish, but Grouper fish could hardly be confirmed with tongue. But the existence of the shrimp together with the orange-flavored paste taken outside was clearly felt. If anything the presence of shrimp stand out.

 

               Ricciola* in guazzetto con salsa verde                Amberjack in green guazzetto sauce

Amberjack 's fillet was cut into moderate size, it was the dish which can taste the most fishiness. It was covered with olive oil mixed with minced basil and the appearance of the green seemed to be the source of Japanese green tea.

 

panna cotta パンナコッタ

The dessert was also very delicious, not only there was chocolate inside the gold-colored cocot but also the plate was drawn like a picture with chocolate to the plate. It was provided in a cocotte form rather than putting out a gelatin-consolidated form in a bare state, plenty of chocolate was contained and there was also a response to eating.

This Ristorante Cotto's "Chef Recommended Course" was 45 € in this content. As I was aiming for fish dishes, the taste was not bad with this fulfilling content and the total balance was very good, so I felt cost performance is enough cooking.

As mentioned above, Venice night's restaurant on 23rd was also quite good as a fish dish, and this fish dish in Rome on 25th was very satisfying, but it is not necessarily always good, but on 26th I entered another restaurant near the hotel at night as same as the 25th and it made a big mistake.

The shop called Ristorante il Botticelli had nothing to eat after 20 minutes of ordering the dishes. And once the dishes came out one after another, it came out one after another, the table became full, its taste was not good, they were not too tasty, so leaving the store mostly left the store. It was a good lesson to have such a shop, but there is no doubt that the store made a bad impression of Italian cuisine.

The cause of this was because I was tired from roaming about 19,000 steps or more about 15 km on sightseeing in Rome this day, so I had no energy to search around restaurants anymore, I found it properly without thinking anything It was. Even though it is a restaurant located just in front of the same day shop in the same city of Rome, there are only such differences, so even though the same restaurant name got attached, I thought it was really various.


The next day Italian impression I felt in an airplane flying from Fiumicino Airport in Rome to Helsinki says, "Italy now has a heavy tradition and traditional buildings made like a stone made by a very old history, It seems that it has been lightened by various people who flow from outside of Italy one by one. "

Italy has been prospering as the center of the Roman Empire since the Etruscans established Rome around 750 B.C. After that, it repeatedly divided and unified, boasting a history of nearly 3,000 years, the relics of the long history still remain in various places, and the feeling that Rome is built on the historical heritage.

It is no doubt that Italy and Rome boasted the world's most advanced wisdom from ancient times, but now I feel that the average level of intellectual level is gradually weakening towards lower people. What can be considered as a major factor is thought to be refugees and immigrants from the Middle East and Africa, and there is a depth that can not be understood by the hearing knowledge of what is original Italian likeness.

Italian fish dish is aware that it is nothing that I have learned from only this experience. However, we were able to touch on part of what the original Italian fish dishes are offered on the site this time.

Actually, on this trip, in the meaning of fish cuisine, Finland's Helsinki who finally stayed overnight found a surprising and interesting discovery, but I will write another thing on that another occasion.

Italy is smaller than Japan in terms of area, but various regions are felt in the four areas of Venice, Florence, Pisa and Rome visited this time, Italy has not only a long historical but regional interest I felt like it.

It seems that there is not enough time to find Italy deeply.


An opinion and the communication are to iinfo@fish food times

Date of updating 1 Nov. 2017